Right of Way

New Year's Day 2007. A beautiful sunny day in California, so Ivy and I went to Capitola for a surf. The waves were small, 1-3ft, and the sets came every 20-30 mins so there was a lot going on. That kind of sucks when the water is so cold that putting my hand in the water hurts. So, with so few waves and so many longboarders this brings up a good point about who gets the wave. I try to follow the idea of closest to the inside and first up gets right of wave. Of course when you are a good 10 yards closer to shore than the longboarders you really need to keep an eye on them. A longboarder will catch the wave way before you on your fun board and will ride that wave for a long distance. So as you paddle always remember to look over your shoulder before you pop up and if you see someone, just sit up and move your weight all the wave to the back of board. That way you back off the wave and let the other guy continue his ride.

So on a quite day I give up a lot of the nicer waves to the longboarders and ride the ones they don't go for (usually the smaller ones), but it's all good..just wish once in a while some of the longboarders would let us other folk catch one of the nicer waves..or maybe I should get a longboard?

Surfing down time

Dec 9th, 2006 - Sunnyvale, CA, USA

The first major winter storm is hitting the bay area coast line this weekend. The news papers report waves as high as 22ft!! I wonder if guys are going to be surfing at Maverick's?? I'd love to see that.

So it's been 6 months since I moved to this part of California. I'm about 1hr from Santa Cruz, and with my new job I really haven't surfed as much as I'd like to. I was trying to go once every weekend, but now that it's Dec and the temp has dropped in the mornings to 40F, I'm really not motivated to get into the ice water; even with my 5mm suit. Plus it's ski season in Tahoe..yeah, yeah..more excuses.

I usually surf by myself now, since Ivy doesn't like to surf in the really cold waters here.My last surf was Thanksgiving weekend (end of Nov for people who don't know what Thanksgiving is). It was a beautiful morning surf at this place called the Hook, in Santa Cruz. Sun was out, sea otters were playing, water was glassy, and nice clean 2-3 ft line was coming in. Nice thing about a reef break here is that even though my paddling has gotten a lot weaker, it's easier to paddle out to the line, then say a beach break.

Still, doing some push ups and yoga twice a week just isn't keeping me in shape. I could feel it to on my paddle out...just was sucking in deep gulps of air as I finally got to where I wanted to and then I had to rest 5mins before I felt ready to catch a wave. Though I'm a natural foot, I usually struggle with going right, but the Hook is a right break so I'm getting a little more comfortable with it. So, on my first wave I popped up, did my turn and just relaxed & rode down the line of the wave in a straight line. I'm trying to practice a little more with turns while riding the wave, but since I'm surfing so, infrequently, I'm really making very little progress. Whenever I turn I usually turn so hard that I lose speed and the wave rolls past me or I bury the rail into the water, but occassionaly I get it right and I link 2 small turns together. The Smoothstar skateboard I use when I'm not surfing has helped me alot with this...hmmm..maybe snowboarding will help to??

I remember the little tips Steve gave me in Sydney about going with the flow of the wave, but I guess learning how to read the flow is the other trick. Once, on a big day for me ( 6 ft), I caught the wave, but turned left so quickly that I found myself with a lot of speed and really high up on the wave face. I aimed for a point in front of me and could feel how fast I was going, but I also noticed that I was being pulled up the face of the wave. I shifted my weight to my toes to try and get the board to start going down the face of the wave, but it felt like it made no difference. Next thing I know I'm falling head first into the water.

Well, that's all for today. Sorry no new pics. I do have a bunch to post, but I haven't gotten them organized yet. Maybe with ski season here I'll have more time to work on those blogs I keep talking about....

Baja Surf Adventures: Part 2 of 2 (sorry it took so long)

(remember to click on my photo album to see more pictures of the Cabo Surf Hotel)

I heard about this place from my friend Larry. The way he described it, “the water is so warm in Cabo in July and August, bathtub warm plus. The hotel is really great and is right in front of the surf at Old Mans, just walk across the sand. It's probably the most surf oriented surf hotel I've been to, hence it's name, Cabo Surf Hotel,” I just couldn’t resist going. So I packed my 7’6” fun board and flew from my parent’s place in Maryland to Mexico. Ok…so this being my first time traveling with a surfboard in the US by plane I will put in my little rant here about how the US airlines just rip you off for checking in your surfboard….$100 USD each way!! Another useful tip is to make sure that the plane you are flying on can fit your surfboard. This applies only to regional jets (called RJs) that have smaller luggage compartments. So, having paid my $100 and convinced the check in agent that my board would just fit I settled into my seat and read a little about Cabo.

The Cabo Surf Hotel is located on an 18mile stretch of road between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas called the Tourist Corridor. The corridor is lined with large, impersonal luxury resort hotels, with no less than seven championship golf courses. Hmmm…so I’m going to be at some huge resort hotel. Thus, I was pleasantly surprised that the Cabo Surf Hotel turned out to be this small boutique resort. With only 19 rooms, and located on a quiet end of Playa Acapluquito beach, the Cabo Surf Hotel feels more like you’re staying at someone’s private villa right on the beach, alright, someone’s really nice 5-star private villa with room service and all the amenities, but you get the idea. With rooms ranging from suites to your standard double room, the Cabo Surf Hotel is perfect for couples or even families.

Larry was spot on with his description of the place and he wasn’t kidding about the water. In the mid-afternoon sun, I was sweating on my board and jumping in the water didn’t help cool me off much. Definitely remember to put on your sunscreen; Slip, Slap, Slop as the Aussies say. The break right in front of the hotel is a right point break. Apparently it’s the best beach in the area to learn to surf on as the other beaches along the coast are beach breaks where you can get some strong rips and the usual problems with beach breaks. The only hazards to look out for are the occasional reefs (take note of them before you paddle out and remember where they are) and jellyfish (they’re not always around, but they were in August). Though it usually isn’t a very crowded spot it can be on the weekends and occasionally on the weekdays between sunrise to 9am and from 4pm to sunset, but most of the time there’s only a couple of guys on their longboards and the vibe is mellow. Speaking of longboards, this place is really popular with longboarders, so for you short boarders take note; you may get a little frustrated that they’re getting all the waves. Which is why I ended up renting a longboard and was I stoked. I don’t think I’ve ever ridden a wave so long in my life. It was 4-6ft during my first 2 days, but I’ve never surfed a more gentle and fun 4-6ft wave. It was probably because I was on a longboard that allowed me to catch the wave much earlier then I usually do on my regular board.

The great thing about surfing here is that if you get bored surfing or have family/friends who don’t surf there is so much to do in Cabo; golf, horseback riding, ATV, tennis, shopping, sailing, kayaking, rock climbing, spas, the list goes on. Transportation can get a little pricey unless you have your own rental car, so try to go with a larger group and negotiate a little with the taxi driver. I definitely recommend taking a day to explore the old town of San Jose del Cabo. Cabo San Lucas is where you go to party, but San Jose is where you go to get some culture. If you’re there go try the Thai food at Baan Thai. It’s more Asian fusion than Thai, but the ingredients are so fresh and the flavors are wonderful, especially the scallops carpacio...yummm…man just writing about the surf and food makes me wish I was in Cabo now!

WHO & HOW MUCH
Cabo Surf Hotel. Mauricio Balderrama is the owner and you can click on the link to go the website to get the latest prices, pictures and more info or type www.cabosurfhotel.com in your browser.

WHERE
San Jose Del Cabo, Mexico. Most major airlines have direct flights to San Jose Del Cabo

WHEN
July to September for the best surf.

LESSONS
Surf lessons are offered through the Mike Doyle Surf School (you’ll find a link to the surf school at the Cabo Surf Hotel website). Miguel, the local instructor does a good job of teaching you the basics. However, if you are a first timer or a weak paddler, try to find out what the conditions are before you book lessons. The waves here break way outside, but they reform when the get closer to the beach and then break again right onto the beach. When the swell is over 3ft the paddle out can be intimidating, physically challenging and a little dangerous. I was watching Miguel with a group of 6 first timers and only half of them were able to paddle out pass the white wash. The rest gave up after 15 mins and went back to the beach without even trying to catch a wave…probably not how they wanted to spend their 1hr surf lesson.

WHAT TO BRING
Sunscreen, boardshorts (maybe a Shortie if it’s winter), and a longboard.

OTHER TIPS
The Cabo Surf Hotel is a 5 star resort, which means 5 star prices for food and drinks. All rooms have a bar fridge and some even have kitchens. If you want to save a little make a stop at the Mega store to get some supplies for breakfast and snacks. Make sure you get up to date on your Tetanus shots, since there is a chance of cutting yourself on the reef.

Surfing Baja Mexico - Baja Surf Adventures; Part 1 of 2 about my surf trip in Baja

(check out my photo album link to see more pics of my trip with Baja Surf Adventures)

It’s midnight as our van navigates the windy mountain roads of Route 1, the Transpeninsular Highway in Baja Mexico. AAA guidebooks describe the drive along Route 1 as a chance to see some of the “most fascinating desert scenery in North America.” Unfortunately, it’s pitch black outside so I have no way of knowing if AAA is telling the truth. The excited energy I felt 4 hrs ago when I was picked up at San Diego airport to start my Mexican surf adventure has now been replaced by slight concern as Angel (our driver/surf instructor/guide/cook) tries to stay awake and is flashing his high beams every time he sees a light approaching in front of us. Turns out that trucks like to take up the whole road and use it like an express lane. At night they are lit up like UFOs from Close Encounters and come flying around blind curves and hills oblivious to oncoming traffic. So, in spite of the kamikaze truck drivers, the armed military checkpoint (looking for drugs), one really bumpy dirt road that require helmets for the people in the backseat of the van, and one sore bum from the 6 hr car ride we finally pull into Bill’s at 2am. Angel proceeds to give us a quick run down of the house rules:

1. Don’t go into the kitchen.
2. Don’t leave open packets of food in your room or little field mice will come in and eat it.
3. Only 1 hot shower per day as the water is stored in tanks and is solar heated.
4. Do not flush toilet paper or other objects down the toilet or you’ll likely back up the septic tank.
5. Highly recommend that you brush your teeth with bottled water (provided) and not use the tap water in the bathrooms.

Luckily, I’m too tired to think about the hygienic implications of rule 3 & 4 that I plunk down on my bed and fall asleep to the pleasant hypnotic sounds of the surf crashing on the rocky beach below.

With dreams of sunny weather, and perfect, crumbling, gentle 4-6 ft waves fresh in mind, I wake up at 6:30am and take two steps out my door to check the surf. All I see is fog…hmmm…. maybe I should go back to sleep and surf those waves in my dreams. The break in front of Bills is called Shipwrecks (so named because of the shipwreck a stone throws distance from the beach wall). It’s a right point break, which is perfect for beginners when it is small, but is best in a big swell. According to Bill, when it is going off, Shipwrecks can hold up to double overhead plus, is fast and you can ride it for 100yds.

Angel sets up some morning fruits, cereal, and coffee for us before we do a pre-breakfast surf. If the coffee doesn’t wake you up, the water will. Even in my 3mm full wetsuit and booties, the water feels like ice when we get in. I swap my board for one of the long boards that Bill has so that I can catch more waves. Though the 1-2 ft sets are small and lack power, I’m still having a lot of fun just cruising the wave for what feels like a minute. The waves peel in textbook fashion allowing for nice long rides into the bay and it gives me a chance to learn how to turn on a longboard. Back in Sydney, surfing beach breaks usually means just making the drop doing one turn and then the section closes out….5 secs of watery bliss…. The best part of it all is that there is no crowd other than the other guests at the resort (just 10 of us).

Sitting down for breakfast (scrambled eggs with sausage and flour tortillas) I meet the rest of the group. It’s all guys this week (much to the disappointment of the single guys and even some of the married guys); like the waves, if we wanted to hang out with girls we should have been there last week. With the exception of me and one guy from Texas, everyone else is from California. Most are here for 3 days only, though I and two other guys are sticking it out for a whole week. There’s a nice mix of surfers of different ability levels and ages. Some have surfed since they were kids and others were learning for the first time. One of the nice things about being in a small group is that those who have surfed for a while are always willing to give some friendly surfing tips and the vibe in the water is always fun and relaxed.

Because the surf is small at Shipwrecks, we pile into the van and go check out the other surf spots near by. Bill’s knowledge of all the surf spots up and down the Baja peninsula is impressive. It certainly comes in handy if there no surf in front of the resort, as Bill will know where some surf can be found. Traveling by bumpy dirt roads, it’s wise to wear your seat belt and make sure that the guys strap your equipment in well. Heads hitting the ceiling and boards flying off the roof rack can happen, and there’s nothing worse than having your brand new, never used board get a crack after being thrown off the roof rack. The scenery is very dramatic with the ocean on one side and the desert/mountains on the other. This must have been some of that desert scenery AAA mentioned. The dirt roads here are popular for quad bikes and other high powered 4 wheel drive vehicles. If you have your own 4 wheel drive SUV it’s worth checking out the little fishing huts along the road and watch people collect and neatly stack bags of stones next to the dirt roads (apparently they sell them back in the city). Keep to the trails and avoid the mud/salt flats where your SUV could get permanently stuck. The desert has scorpions and the occasional rattlesnake. So if you’re going to do a hike or go mountain biking keep an eye open for them, but they shouldn’t pose a problem as they are more scared of us then we are of them.

Unfortunately, the conditions are similar at the other breaks. We have some luck at a break called Cobbles, where there are some small A-frames though I notice a lot of seaweed in the water (so much of it that when you surf through the stuff it feels like someone is putting the brakes on your board). The best and biggest waves this trip are 30 mins away at Cuatro Casas. A fun right point reef break, though underwater rocks and sea urchins are a hazard to look out for. A little scary for first time beginners, but if you are confident in your paddling and are able to stand on a green wave then it’s a lot of fun. Cuatro Casas is well known and is the location of another surf hotel/hostel. Camping there is also an option and if you can it’s worth checking out the boats that have been converted to basic rooms. Though it’s usually not crowded and open to the public, there is a sign saying they charge for parking if you’re not staying there and I hear it’s not wise not to pull up in van loaded with people just to surf. Luckily, we met some guys from California who are regulars there and they let us park for free and have a go at the surf. Usually the vibe in the water is really friendly and laid back, but of course, as luck would have it a high school surf team has booked in at the hostel for 2 nights, so for 2 days the line up at Cuatro is pretty crowded and some small arguments break out in the water over the usual stuff about dropping in etc…

Besides the surf, there are a few things to do at the resort. There’s ping-pong, a basketball hoop, horseshoes, a couple of mountain bikes, and some kayaks. Bills website recommends bringing some snorkeling gear, but the water is so cold that I pass on that activity. Unfortunately, the closet village is 45 mins away. There’s not much to do in these small towns, which mainly consist of taco stands, and small supply stores. There is the occasional antique store and I did see signs for bull fights. If you get the chance ask Bill to take to you to the local fish taco stand in town, extremely delicious and extremely cheap!

After the main group leaves on Monday, the rest of us fall quickly into a daily routine…wake up at 6am, go for a surf, eat breakfast, pile into the van, check out other surf spots, have lunch, have a siesta till 4pm,then to Cuatro Casas to catch the best sets around, head back to Bills, have dinner, sit by the fire, look at the stars, go to sleep… repeat tomorrow… ahhh … total relaxation.

WHO:
Bill runs Baja Surf Adventures out of San Diego. He started out using tents and taking people on surf/camp adventures in Northern Baja. From the days of tents he has built up a little resort in Punta San Jacinto (2-3 hrs south of Ensenada). The resort is built on a beach wall at the north end of a large bay. The beach is all rocks so forget any ideas of lazing on a white sandy beach next to turquoise water. In fact the closet sand you’ll get is the sand compound at Bill’s, which has beach chairs, hammocks, a sun deck, and three palapas to relax under. The facilities at Bills are simple and clean; 4 rooms with either basic cots or wooden bunk beds. Not the best beds if you have a bad back, but they do the trick. No bedding is provided so bring a sleeping bag and a pillow. There are 3 individual bathrooms and 2 individual showers all cleaned daily (bring your own towels and toiletries). There is one TV in the breakfast room that gets Direct TV and Bill also just installed wireless Internet in case you bring your laptop and really need to check your e-mail. 3 meals a day are provided and it’s pretty good food. You’ll definitely be well fed on a mix of Mexican dishes (cooked up by the local maid) or some nice sirloin steaks done on the bar-b-que. There’s a small outdoor bar that is stocked with cold beers and a small selection of tequila and rum, plus some soft drinks and juices (drinks are extra). Every night, Bill starts a campfire and you just relax by the fire with a beer in one hand gazing at the stars above. If your family or group of friends likes to surf and don’t mind the camping like conditions, then I highly recommend Bill’s; it’s great value for the money you pay. I would call this 4 star camping.

Baja Surf Adventures organizes 3 to 7 day excursions to their resort in Northern Baja on a weekly basis (dependent on group size). For more intermediate to advanced surfers, they also run guided surf/camping trips in Central and Southern Baja...minimum 4 people for these camping trips.

Website: www.bajasurfadventures.com

WHERE:
Punta San Jacinto, Northern Baja (by car 6 hrs from San Diego, about 2-3 hrs south from Ensenada). Bill provides car transportation to & from San Diego airport or you can drive yourself from LA or San Diego. Most major US airlines fly direct to San Diego. For international travelers you may need to connect in LA if coming from the Pacific or New York if coming from Europe.

WHEN:
Best to check with Bill to see when the best time to come given your level of surfing ability. According to Surfline, surf conditions in Northern Baja are similar to the conditions in Southern California. Summer is the most crowded, but not the best for consistent swell. Fall (from late Aug to Oct) is the best period to go and May has the most the most consistent swell.

HOW MUCH:
To stay at the Northern Baja resort prices are:

3day 2 nights - $USD 350 per person ($USD 485 with lessons)
7day 6 nights - $USD 700 per person ($USD 950 with lessons)

*includes pick up and drop off at San Diego airport and 3 meals a day.

An even cheaper option is to drive yourself to Bill’s resort (4WD car highly recommended) which will cost you $USD 85 per night ($USD 140 with lessons) and includes 3 meals a day. Check their website for the pricing for trips to central and southern Baja.

LESSONS:
Bill’s provides lessons & surfboards for beginners. He usually has 2 guys working with him (depending on the number of guests) who are surfers and they provide enough basic instruction to get a beginner started (how to paddle, and stand).

WHAT TO BRING:
It’s surprisingly chilly even though it is summer. For the water you’ll need to bring a full wetsuit (at least a spring suit) as the water temp is usually between 15-18c (59-64f). For fall/winter/ or spring I imagine it would be a little bit colder. Because most entries into the water are rocky and there are urchins it’s advisable to also invest in some booties. Bring a sweatshirt and some comfortable pants to keep you warm at night or when the wind kicks up during the day. As for which surfboard to bring, call Bill a week before you go and have him advise you on the conditions so you know what to bring. The surf here can handle almost anything from longboards, mini-mals, to shortboards. In addition, you’ll need to bring your own towels, sleeping bag, and pillow.

WATER CLEANLINESS:
If you read Surfline’s report on Northern Baja pollution is listed as a major concern. Luckily, Bill’s is located far enough away from the major pollution centers of Tijuana and Ensenada. The water is clean with plenty of sea life around (saw some sea otters pop up near me one day in the surf). At most you just need to make sure you are up to date on your Tetanus and Diphtheria shot (DPT shot).

So you want to surf??

I've always wanted to surf since I was 12 when I went to Hawaii and saw some kids surfing. Something about spending hours in the blue ocean and riding something as ephemeral as a wave fascinated me, plus everyone looked like they were having so much fun!!

For one reason or the other I never got around to it. Mainly because I never lived anywhere near an ocean. However, when I moved to Sydney for work about 2 years ago, I decided that I was either going to give it a try or forget about it. So I signed up for lessons with "Let's Go Surfing" in Bondi Beach. I LOVED IT!! From the moment I stood up for the first time I was thinking to myself, "why didn't I do this 15 years ago?!?" I've done all sorts of sports, from running, the gym, kickboxing, skiing etc..but none of them match surfing. Not only is it great physical exercise, but just being in the water for 1-2 hours helps wipe away all the stress and tension that life throws at you. So, I bought a board and thus started my journey from being a Barney to hopefully one day being a surfer.

First off..let me tell ya..it ain't easy. I'm sure as a kid it's a lot easier since you're probably learning with friends and have a parent/sibling who surfs and aren't things just easier to learn at that age? At 30, I didn't have any friends or family who surfed, so there weren't many people to turn to for me to ask questions about surfing. Sure I could bug the guys at the surf shop or the surf teacher or even some poor guy waiting for his wave, but after my 3rd question I could see that look in their eyes of "geez..enough questions..just go and figure it out." One good thing was that my girlfriend and her sister were learning to surf at the same time I was. So at the very least I had someone to surf with and all 3 of us could bother more people with questions than I could by myself.

Yup it ain't easy...once at Freshwater, I was taking a break from a session and was sitting on the beach when this 8 yr old kid sat down next to me. His dad was teaching him how to surf. Anyway he asked me how long I was surfing...I said 6 months. Then he asked me if I was able to turn yet..I said no. Next thing I know he's standing up and teaching me how to turn, where to place my feet and weight on the board, etc... Don't get me wrong I was grateful, I was standing up and following what he was doing. But it must have been funny to look at. The worse part was when he said that he would surf better than me in 6 months than I would after 1 year....thanks kid...

So what did I do to learn how to surf besides free tips from 8 yr old kids? What anyone with some disposable income would do in this day and age, I signed up for lessons, bought some how to surf books, and did lots of research on the internet (there's lots of info out there about surfing). A good place to start is the website Surfing Waves. It's catered for beginners and is on my links page "Surfing-waves." With all this info I still made lots of mistakes, got banged up a little surfing, learned lots of things and even did my first surf trip. With this blog I hope to share my past experiences from the last 2 years and my new adventures as I continue my surfing journey. Each post will be around an experience I had, for example "Buying my first board." I have several posts in mind and hope to post them about every 2 weeks. Also check the link for "My Photo Album" to see my latest surf pics.

If you have any questions let me know, I'll do my best to answer them. If you've been surfing a long time and have comments or tips I would love to hear them as well..

Hope to see you in the water!!

Triple T


Quick summary of where I'm at with my surfing. I use the description of levels from Let's Go Surfing (I think it's a pretty good scale for beginner to intermediate surfers). Based on their level I'm a Level 4 surfer. It means I can confidently paddle out the back and take off, and ride down the face of an unbroken wave standing. I'm learning to take the drop and bottom turn, traverse left and right across the face of a wave, and develop duck-diving skills.

Currently I'm surfing a 6 11x 20 3/4x 2 3/4 fun-board (aka..hybrid, mini-mal). It's my second board, just got it a week ago. It's a custom made board designed by Steve Clements. It's shorter than what I was surfing, so I'm still adjusting to it, but it's a great board. I have some pictures of it in my photo album.